Le Musée Historique Lorrain, 64, Grande Rue. The local history museum in the former Duke's Palace (replaced by the 18th-century one that is now City Hall). One of the better museums of its type.
The picture is the nave of the Cordeliers church. The Dukes are buried in a chapel off to the side.
Le Bistrot de Gilles, 31, rue des Maréchaux. 03.83.35.43.73. Many of the businesses on this short street are restaurants, few of which are in foreign guidebooks, but I had two good meals. At lunch everyone has the 15 euro menu that is only posted outside. I had a salade de gésiers, beef stew with noodles, and a pastry.
The City of Nancy is not terribly old by European standards, and there are two parts that were developed in different periods. This picture is of la Porte de la Graffe, a gate to the Old City. Note the cross of Lorraine that was made famous by General de Gaulle. This part of the city has narrower streets that are not always straight and includes the Cathedral. Walk down la Grande Rue - Main Street - to reach the Ducal Palace.
Lunch at la Gentilhommière, 29 rue des Maréchaux. 03.83.32.26.44. Salade de gésiers et canard fumé, pièce de boeuf, et tarte tatin à la crème fraîche.
Dinner at le Bistrot Latin, 1-3 rue des Carmes. Salad with tomatoes and mozzarella, papillotte de rascasse et legumes, et coupe vigneronne au cassis.
Dinner at les Pissenlits, 25 bis, rue des Ponts. 03.83.37.43.97. The name means dandelions, so I started with their dandelion salad served with a dressing of lardons and crème fraîche.
Le Musée des Beaux-Arts, 3, place Stanislas. The façade is the original 18th-century building, but much of the collection is in an open and modern 1999 addition barely visible behind it. The permanent collection of paintings is attractive but has no important works. There are paintings by Manet, Matisse, Signac, Dufy, and Monet. The principal local artist was Emile Friant, who was a contemporary of the Impressionists but painted in a more traditional style. Go to the basement to see the collection of Daum Nancy glass, much of it donated by the family or the firm. The glass surrounds excavated city walls (begun in 1480) that were located when the addition was built.
The city's claim to fame, in addition to Art Nouveau architecture and glass, is the ensemble of 18th-century architecture of the area around the central place Stanislas, which is named for the Duke who went on a building spree.
le Palais des Gouverneurs
***(Best Western) Hôtel Crystal, 5, rue Chanzy. 03.83.17.54.00. Fax 03.83.17.54.30. Best Western, Hotels de Charme, and Michelin. hotelcrystal.nancy@wanadoo.fr. Near the train station. I had a small but comfortable room decorated in Provencal colors. The interior of the hotel and the furnishings appeared to have been recently renovated.
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